I've Never Had the Maitre'd Kiss My Hand

Tonight we are in Verona. Earlier in the day, we walked around the city, revisiting areas we had seen briefly yesterday. (After a long, sometimes frustrating drive from Lake Como to finally arriving at our Hotel Del Capuleti, we weren't in the same frame of mind as this morning, freshly rested, showered, and fed.) This time, we saw the city with clear eyes, recalling events from our previous two visits. This time, when we visited "Juliet's Balcony," we found a crowded courtyard with hundreds of padlocks clipped to the window railing, signifying enduring love of the couples who placed them there. We also saw an arch filled with chewing gum pressed into the old walls. Later, we walked across the Adige River on the Ponte Nuovo then back across the river.
We walked through the shopping areas, people-watching along the way.
Later on, we stopped for pannini and water, eating in a lovely grape arbor of a cafe across from the Duomo.
By the time we were finished with our light lunch, most of the shops were closed down for the afternoon. We were headed back to the hotel to avoid the heat of the day when we noticed we could go into the Arena. (In 1971, on our honeymoon, we were in Verona on what was the 150th anniversary of Verdi's "Aida." We could not find a room to stay one more night, nor had we purchased tickets, so we had no choice but to board the train and head for Venice without seeing "Aida." Today, there was nothing to do but see the vast arena and sit on the marble seats that have endured for more than 1000 years.
Last night we ate dinner in Piazza Erbe, once the main city market; today, we watched as workers set up tables for 700+guests tonight to celebrate the Romeo & Juliet story. Rather than be near the chaos of so many people, we sought to make our own party.

We sat in the main Piazza Bra before dinner, sipping a "Spritz," a concoction of wine and, possibly, Compari, served over ice. Later, we found our way to the Piazza del Signori, near the statue of Dante, where we had a lovely dinner at the Antica Cafe Dante. When the wine steward brought us our bottle of sparkling white wine, he poured and then placed the bottle on ice. He soon returned with the cork, saying he needed to replace the bottle, as it might have the taste of the cork. We insisted it was fine and continued with our dinner. We skipped appetizers but enjoyed our "primi piatti," pasta with seafood for Henry and my gnocchi with smoked ricotta and summer black truffle. Second courses were equally delicious, and we finished with tiramisu and coffee. When we left, the Maitre'd kissed my hand.